After years of seeing elegant clients making classic and flamboyant
combinations, one reaches the conclusion that style is very personal
and that there are few, if any, specific rules. Nevertheless, there
are always certain traditional guidelines to how a shirt should be
worn. We shall try to present some below.
A dress shirt is very simple with clean lines.
There are no accessories nor is it overelaborated. The most common
elements are as follows:
The pocket: it is more elegant not to have
pocket, as the shirt looks better. It is more stylish and shirts are
not made for carrying weight in the pocket, and if something is put
into the pocket it deforms the hang of the fabric. Furthermore,
strictly speaking, one should never take a jacket off, and the
jacket has all the necessary pockets (and the consistency so as not
to be deformed with weight). However, some of our customers prefer
to have a pocket because itís more practical.
or pleats in the back: the more stylish back is plain with no
darts or pleats. Usually prÍt-ŗ-porter shirts have darts so that
the same collar size fits onto a different body sizes; you have to
consider that if a shirt is too tight it is uncomfortable and you
donít buy it, but if itís baggy, itís not as obvious. A custom
made shirt is adapted to the clientís exact back and chest size,
and so darts are not required, making the shirt more comfortable and
elegant. For a more causal look and extra room, casual shirts do
have a central dart or pleat.
placket: we donít particularly like it for our dress shirts.
It looks cleaner with a plain front, and the front band does not
make the shirt more resistant. But it depends a lot on the country;
in Anglo-Saxon countries shirts include it, whilst in France and
Italy, the tradition is not to include it in formal shirts. In
button-down shirts it gives it a more casual look and it centres the
collar points better to the front of the shirt, and therefore is
plackets with button: most of our customers choose the sleeve
placket without buttons for formal shirts. It looks cleaner, finer
and easier to iron; and it's normal to break the button when ironing
or forget to button it up. We have made our sleeve placket shorter so
that it does not open and show the arm and itís always in place.
However, in casual shirts the sleeve placket is longer so as to roll
up the sleeves and a button is included so that it doesnít open
Many customers ask which collar is in or should
they wear? The truth is that it depends on the build of the person
than a passing fashion. The rule is that a person with the thick
and a round face should avoid open or spread collars (Italian style)
and use more classic collars that make them look better. On the
contrary, people with thin necks and thin faces should use spread
collars so as not to sharpen their look. Therefore, it does not
depend on whether the person is thin or well-built, but on the face
and neck shape.
With regard to cuffs, the most elegant are double
or French cuffs. The exception would be a tailcoat which uses single
cuffs but with cuff-links; this is not the case for tuxedos.
The size of the collar should be as full fitted
as possible. The general rule would be to be able to fit two fingers
between the collar and neck, but no more than that. A large collar
gives a slovenly impression.
The sleeve should have the exact length so that
the cuff is always visible. If the arm is straight you should be
able to see 1 to 1.5 cm; when the arm is bent, you should be able to
see 2 to 4 cm, so that you can see the cuff links.
The shirt body should not have extra
fabric. The wider the shirt, the more excess fabric and the more it
gets creased within the jacket. You have to reach a balance between
comfort and appearance, which can only be achieved with a custom
made shirt. The "semi-tailored" or
"made-to-measure" never manage that level of detail or elegance
("semi-tailored" refers to taking measurements and an
averaged shirt body size is assigned, and modifications are
applied only to the collar size and sleeve length).
Again, should you have any doubts or questions, please contact